Gaultier’s fall 1987 collection was a shamelessly camp exploration of leather-clad rock ‘n’ roll. Presented at the peak of heavy-metal glam, bold cod pieces were paired with leather jackets full of emblems and steel appliqués reminiscent of 1950s biker gangs. These overwrought leather pieces, first immortalized by Marlon Brando in The Wild Bunch, became key iconography of BDSM and LGBTQ sub-cultures through the 60s, 70s, and 80s, with key cultural touchstones including Kenneth Anger’s film Scorpio Rising. It’s natural that Gaultier would have thus explored such an aesthetic, and his hyper-masculinized way of doing so — with cropped waists and padded shoulders, is reminiscent of artists such as Tom of Finland.

The jackets from fall of 1987 are some of Gaultier’s most important work, and graced the likes of Freddy Mercury and Dead or Alive frontman Pete Burns. This ultra-heavy weight piece is full of metal metal studs, and features carved skull fastenings at the shoulder.

Condition: 9/10. No significant flaws. 

Tagged size: No tagged size, fits a size M best.

Shoulder: 22in

Pit to pit: 20in

Length: 22in

Sleeve: 24in