Jean Paul Gaultier’s spring 1996 show focused on themes of love and the expression of one’s body. The presentation was quintessential Gaultier in its irreverent playfulness — the runway had belly-dancers and models skipping arm-in-arm, toting umbrellas, and striking exaggerated, camp-like poses. The exuberance on display belied a more grim theme, as the collection unveiled Gaultier’s now iconic “Safe Sex Forever” graphic - a tribute to his fallen lover, which was meant to call attention to the AIDS epidemic.

Exposed bodies were a recurring theme throughout the collection, with multiple trompe l’oeil prints meant to create the illusion of muscular physiques. This bomber takes a more impressionistic approach, displaying an X-ray of a human spine running down the wearer’s back. It’s made with a light rayon fabric, and has a cropped silhouette and elastic hem meant to emphasize the narrowness of one’s hips, which Gaultier often used for outerwear around this time.

Condition: 8/10. Loose thread above the front hem.

Tagged size: 50

Shoulder: 20in

Pit to pit: 22in

Length: 21in

Sleeve: 24in