In the waning days of his era-defining reign atop his eponymous label, Helmut Lang’s fall 2004 collection seemed to harken back to the sophisticated tailoring he released in the 90s; though the voluminous cuts of the ‘90s were replaced with the razor precision he’d developed in the late stages of his career. However, there was still plenty of what made Lang who he was, including mesh tops with intricate metal harnesses hidden beneath. As eloquently surmised by Vogue, “when you buy into Lang's aesthetic… you're also complicit with his subtly coded subtexts”.

This pair of jeans was influenced by Karlheinz Weinberger’s groundbreaking photography of a group of Swiss youth, dubbed “The Unusuals.” Influenced by Elvis and greaser culture, this group of teens took the aesthetic to a theatrical extreme, with massive belts and cement strong pompadours; it was dress-as-performance at the highest level. Their visual lexicon was notably borrowed by John Waters, for his greaser classics “Hairspray” and “Cry Baby”, which infused an element of camp into the classic look. These pants weave chains through the crotch region, an area of focus in Weinberger’s work, which often focused on the zippers and engraved belts of his subjects.

Condition: 10/10. Brand new with original tag attached.

Tagged size: 32

Waist: 16.5in

Rise: 11in

Thigh: 12.5in

Inseam: 33in

Hem: 8in