Issey Miyake exists as a designer in the most literal interpretation of the word. His clothes do not exist to put forth a narrative as those of Ann or Raf do, but rather to display marvels of technical skill and innovation. His career has been propelled by a desire to explore fabric and construction techniques, and how they interact with their wearer’s body. In recent years, Miyake has completely disassociated himself from the label, choosing to strictly to work on developing new fabrics. His scientific approach to expression of beauty has found him many vaunted kindred spirits, including Steve Jobs, whom he designed his iconic black turtlenecks for.

Hailing from Issey Miyake’s AW1991 collection, this now-famous jacket has been rendered inextricable from the striking photo which legendary photographer Irving Penn made it the subject of. Penn and Miyake collaborated together numerous times throughout their careers, with Penn displaying a unique aptitude for capturing the sculptural qualities of Miyake’s work. His image of this coat displayed a completely-sheathed body wearing the parka, arms parked on their waist, where the coat sits fully cinched before flaring out towards both the shoulders and hips. The silhouette is striking in and of itself, but the loose drawstrings and embroidery bestow an uneasy, impressionist-like quality upon the composition, creating one of the lasting images of Issey’s legendary stint at his eponymous label.

The coat itself features an oversized hood, alongside the aforementioned embroidery, and an asymmetric hem.

Condition: 8.5/10. Small sign of discoloration on upper right sleeve.

Tagged size: Untagged, fits S. See measurements for reference.

Shoulder: 21.5in

Pit to pit: 25in

Length: 30in

Sleeve: 21.5in