The reclusive Martin Margiela is truly a designer’s designer. A principle influence on many of both his piers and those who came after, it’s possible to draw an entire family tree of labels born from the ethos Margiela so effortlessly captured. Unlike designers such as Hedi and Rick and Galliano, where the specter of their sheer personality hangs over every creation, one photo of the man exists, and no official interviews were ever conducted, allowing his creations a quality of pure expression largely foreign in the fashion world. His work was often highly deconstructed, challenging notions we take for granted and what clothing and a runway show should be — runways shows in parks, 2-D clothing, models holding hangers with their outfits on them. He upheaved the foundation that nearly every other designer choses to build up from.

For his second ever men’s collection, Martin Margiela pulled inspiration from American athletic wear and imagery, a motif he would later revisit in years to come. This rebuilt sweater features leather elbow patches affixed to a 1988 Buffalo Bills crewneck, hand-done and sourced by the Margiela atelier. Each of these sweaters are one of a kind.

Condition: 9/10. No significant flaws.

Tagged size: M

Shoulder: 19in

Pit to pit: 23in

Length: 24.5in

Sleeve: 28.5in (measured from neck)