Alexander McQueen’s fall 1996 collection, "Dante," was seeped in references to both Christianity and the occult. This duality began with the collection’s namesake, Dante Alighieri, the eponymous narrator of Dante’s Inferno, who leads readers through the nine circles of Hell. The show was staged in London’s Christ Church, built in the 18th century by a suspected Satanist, Nicholas Hawksmoor. A skeleton sat in the front row, and the standout pieces implied a sort of religious fervor. Masks featuring Jesus Christ obscured the faces of many of the models (these masks were borrowed from a 1984 self-portrait of American photographer Joel Peter-Witkin), while others donned deer skulls and large horns, harbingers of some Pagan ritual. Horrific images from the Vietnam War were set in faded prints into his denim tops, creating the image of distant spirits trying to cross over into the world. “Dante" was considered a rousing success and seen as McQueen delivering upon the immense promise he’d shown in his burgeoning career.

This top is regarded as not only one of the signature pieces of fall 1996, but of McQueen’s career. Its light fabric is completely sheer, and it displays the season’s religious connotations with a cross in the top corner, and a scripture-like embroidery of “Life Is Pain.” Beneath the embroidery is an “AM” crest, in reference to the designer’s name.

Condition: 8/10. McQueen label is missing, no other significant flaws.

Tagged size: L

Shoulder: 15in

Pit to pit: 17.5in

Length: 20in