To step back into fall 2016 one must rid themselves of the notion of Denma Gvasalia as the superstar designer he is today. It was an uneasy time for the art, fashion weeks were dominated by trend-buzzard one-season-wonders, and the world of couture was gripped by bizarre flameouts such as Alexander Wang at Balenciaga, and the unexpected exits of Hedi Slimane and Phoebe Philo. Denma was hardly a proven quantity, and his status as successor to Wang made comparisons between the two all too easy. Whether he was more savant or enfant terrible was readily up for debate.

While the collection has aged like fine wine, it’s not hard to find fashion writers of the time lining up to skewer Vetements (many of whom have since changed their tune, but that’s for another time,) and at the time skeptics likely voiced the majority opinion. Staged at the American Cathedral in Paris, one of France’s oldest churches, Demna noted he crafted the collection while in a dark point of his life, and in many ways it felt like a battle for the soul. There were loud contradictions between dark and light — the church and schoolgirl catholic dresses clashed against heavy metal graphics and speakers from which Goth icons Sisters of Mercy blared. Good and evil were placed against each other in no uncertain terms.

This is not to say it was entirely a grim affair — Vetements has never skimped on humor, and shirts which simply blared “you fuck’n asshole” were among the highlights of the collections. Many of the garments were deconstructed, while asymmetric styling further compounded the chaos of the looks.

This hoodie is perhaps the most popular graphic from the season. Along with its famous front and back graphics, it features “INHELL” and “EXHELL” on the shoulder, and “Drink from me and live forever” on the sleeve.

Condition: 9/10, no noticeable flaws.

Size: S

Chest: 29n

Length: 30in