Yohji Yamamoto’s spring 2005 collection was based on French icon Serge Gainsbourg. The understated sophistication of the clothing and heavy use of linen fabrics certainly did seem to call to a Parisian beachside tryst, as one might picture Gainsbourg himself involved in. Silk shirts, pajama suits, and infinity scarves were seen alongside some of Yamamoto’s trademarks including double-lapeled jackets, layered shirts, and tattered tuxedo tops.

This jacket comes from a collaboration with the Japanese denim label Spotted Horse, which was founded in the mid-90s and made a name for itself with hand-done, pre-distressed, raw denim. It features a pin-up graphic of a mermaid; the visual style is taken from nose art, a WWII style of painting that appeared on US planes and was often gratuitously sexual. It is just one of several times Yamamoto has employed such a style.

Condition: 9/10. No significant flaws.

Shoulder: 18in

Pit to pit: 19in

Length: 23.5in

Sleeve: 24.5in