Tom Ford's fall 2003 collection felt like something of a transitionary season. The flowing kimonos and silk trousers that had guided his recent work remained, but the traces of the suave, hyper-tailored, and hyper-masculine look which would eventually define him had begun to take shape. He repurposed classic naval silhouettes and even Russian military hats, then paired the military wear with fine tailoring of velvet and suede. The pants were now ultra-slim through the hip before briefly flaring out at the hem, if at all. Of course, it wouldn’t be a Ford collection without cheeky details which make overt nods to the bedroom, and such is seen here in the silk ties wrapped tight around his models’ necks.

To this day, the understated, yet suave suede trucker jacket remains a signature of Ford’s collections. This season marks one of the earliest appearances of such, seen here in a deep purple suede with Western detailing such as wood buttons, and contrast white throughout.

Condition: 9/10. No significant flaws.

Tagged size: 48

Shoulder: 17.5in

Pit to pit: 20.25in

Length: 23.25in

Sleeve: 25.5in