Walter Van Beirendonck’s fall 1996 runway presentation was beset by numerous mishaps out of his control, including a last minute venue change due to the wave of terrorism which riddled France all summer, and crucial production material being tied up in customs after being mistaken for cocaine. Despite these bizarre acts of misfortune, the final product displayed much of the left-field brilliance which defined his label. The inspirations for the presentation were characteristically oblique, with visuals drawn from Bavarian castles and Ken dolls, as models sported prosthetic hair pieces reminiscent of the famous toy. Some of Walter’s most prescient nods to the future also surfaced, including pockets for cell phones, and light up t-shirts which spoke when pressed.

Bears were a recurring motif throughout the season, expressed in the large, bearded models that presented many of the show’s looks, and the variety of bear graphics which popped up across garments. This shirt harkens to the archetype of a bear, with thick chest hair and a playfully triumphant “Finally Chesthair” quote on the back.

Condition: 9/10. No significant flaws.

Tagged size: S

Shoulder: 15in

Pit to pit: 17in

Length: 21in

Sleeve: 20.5in