“His work was never anti-fashion, never. It’s not negative at all. You could compare it to punk but it doesn’t have the negativity – it shocks and questions standards, questions a system”

Martin Margiela’s work at Hermes was somewhat misunderstood. His appointment to head of the famously elitist house sent shockwaves through fashion. The world did not know what to expect, but waited on baited breath for such a reveal. People speculated if Margiela would make a mockery of the Birkin, saw one in half, who knew what chaos would ensue? As it turned out, Margiela had no intention of upending the label, he made clothes for the wearer, not the watcher, as he confided, and his relatively tame work at Hermes left the fashion community somewhat deflated. After all, there is no fun in plain old competence.

Nevertheless, the clothes were excellent, and an in-depth exploration of his work should render Margiela’s genius readily apparent. The splatter jackets of 2003, with their print titled “Chevel Surprise,” are some of the scant immediately recognizable works from his time there, yet also some of his more interesting uses of fabric. The trucker is made from a blend of cotton and silk, not unlike Helmut Lang was experimenting with at the same time, and are lined with a sporty mesh inner, which keeps the jacket cool and breezy when worn.

Condition: 9/10. No noticeable flaws

Tagged size: M

Shoulder: 17in

Pit to pit: 20in

Length: 22.5in

Sleeve: 21.5in